Cycling Sardegna and Corsica

Cycle through the heart of the Valley of the Nuraghe, passing small rural villages, golden wheat fields, and carpets of wildflowers in a landscape shaped by Sardinia’s earliest inhabitants. Ancient stone nuraghe punctuate the countryside, offering a glimpse into the island’s deep prehistoric roots.

The route then eases toward the coast, where sweeping sea views guide you into Castelsardo, one of Sardinia’s most captivating medieval hill towns. Rising dramatically above the water, its narrow lanes, stone ramparts, and commanding castle make this beautifully preserved village a true highlight—and a perfect blend of history, scenery, and cycling pleasure.

Gallura is a rugged, mountainous region in northeastern Sardinia, defined by ancient granite formations that date back more than 300 million years. This timeless landscape sets the stage for two unforgettable days of cycling and exploration in one of the island’s most fascinating and least-expected corners.

While Gallura is internationally known for the glamour of the Costa Smeralda—with its dramatic rocky headlands and dazzling beaches—the wider region reveals an unspoiled mosaic of sandy coves, turquoise bays, and pristine natural beauty. Riding along the aptly named Paradise Coast, we cycle toward Santa Teresa Gallura, with an optional, more challenging loop inland to the hilltop town of Tempio Pausania for those seeking extra elevation and reward.

Beyond its landscapes, Gallura is rich in tradition. The region is celebrated for its artisanal crafts, particularly cork production, weaving, and granite carving, alongside age-old practices of fishing, hunting, and winemaking. It is also home to Vermentino, Sardinia’s signature white wine—an ideal opportunity for a tasting along the way.

The following morning, we ride south toward Palau, where wind and sea have sculpted the granite coastline into extraordinary, almost surreal shapes. The most iconic of these formations is Capo d’Orso—the Bear Rock—so striking it appears carved by human hands.

From Palau, a ferry carries us across crystalline waters to the La Maddalena Archipelago, famed for its pristine coastline, pink-tinged sands, and rich marine life, including local crabs and mussels. After a light seafood lunch in the charming town of La Maddalena, we return by ferry to Santa Teresa, bringing this spectacular chapter of the journey to a close.

Pedaling along the aptly named Paradise Coast, we ride toward Santa Teresa Gallura, where turquoise waters and sculpted granite headlands frame the route. For those seeking an extra challenge, an optional loop climbs inland to the hilltop town of Tempio Pausania, rewarding effort with sweeping views and a deeper sense of Gallura’s rugged soul.

This is a land shaped as much by tradition as by stone and sea. Gallura is celebrated for its fine handicrafts—cork harvesting, weaving, and granite carving—alongside time-honored livelihoods of fishing, hunting, and winemaking. It is also the birthplace of Vermentino, Sardinia’s signature white wine, whose crisp minerality captures the essence of the coast. A tasting, perhaps?

The following morning, we cycle to Palau, where wind and waves have transformed ancient granite into fantastical animal forms, so expressive they appear sculpted by an artist’s hand. The most enchanting of all is Capo d’Orso, the iconic Bear Rock, gazing eternally toward the sea.

From Palau, a ferry carries us across shimmering waters to the La Maddalena Archipelago, renowned for its pristine coastline, pink-tinged sands, and rich marine life—home to local “faoni” crabs and celebrated mussels. After a light seafood lunch in the charming town of La Maddalena, we return to Santa Teresa… or continue exploring the legendary Costa Smeralda.

Often called Sardinia’s glamorous Riviera, the Costa Smeralda is a dazzling contrast of elegance and nature—sleek marinas filled with yachts, white-sand beaches edged by rose-hued granite, and lush hillsides bursting with wild blossoms.

As evening approaches, save room for dinner and indulge in Gallurese specialties passed down through generations: richly flavored pork meats—salami, sausages, and cured hams—alongside local dishes such as ziminu, suppa cuata, mazzafrissa, and pulilgioni, each telling a story of land, season, and heritage.

We settle in for the night at a welcoming, family-run 3-star coastal hotel. Dinner is at your leisure—an open invitation to explore, savor, and linger where the day leaves you.

Today, we cross the sea to Corsica, ferrying toward the spectacular port of Bonifacio—one of the Mediterranean’s most dramatic arrivals. As we glide through the Straits of La Maddalena, we keep watch for dolphins escorting us across the archipelago, their silhouettes dancing in the wake.

Bonifacio reveals itself slowly and breathtakingly. Immense white limestone cliffs rise straight from the sea, their layered faces carved by centuries of wind and waves. Perched improbably atop these cliffs, the ancient Haute Ville appears to float above the water—an intricate maze of narrow lanes and tall Genoese houses that seem to grow directly out of the rock itself. On the landward side, a deep natural fissure separates the peninsula from the mainland, forming a perfectly sheltered harbor that has welcomed sailors for centuries and today hosts a glamorous marina filled with yachts from across the Mediterranean.

Cross the drawbridge and step into a town that has fiercely preserved its identity. Here, the spoken dialect remains Genoese rather than Corsican, and the old town folds inward on itself, revealing hidden corners, timeworn stone walls, and an intimate collection of boutiques and artisan shops. With your guides, explore the clifftop paths overlooking the sea or discover secluded coves tucked below the ramparts.

The afternoon unfolds on two wheels as we enjoy a stunning ride through Corsica’s unspoiled maquis—fragrant brushland alive with wild herbs—before reaching the famed beaches of Piantarella and Santa Manza, where turquoise waters and pale sands invite lingering moments. For those who prefer, today also offers the option to explore on foot with a scenic coastal hike.

We settle in for the evening at a welcoming property we love in Bonifacio, followed by dinner at one of our very favorite local trattorias, where Corsican flavors and warm hospitality provide the perfect close to an unforgettable day.